Was just wondering when I had to wire in the USB connecter to the mother board of the Qidi X plus which is very easy to do. The Guy in the youtube video said not to connect the 5V DuPont connecter on the mother board side maybe this was to stop some problems like this happening in the first place. Glad I did not connect it now. my best Daz
worked very well on my Ender 3v2 printer
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electrician here, your good with masking tape, painters tape or even some scotch tape. The only problem is if it will stick once you slide in the usb cord. I wouldn't use duct tape since you could have a possibility the glue from the tape getting all over the inside of the usb jack. electrical tape is the best and only about 99 cents a roll, also good for future projects. you can even find the stuff at the grocery store
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I forgot to fit
a back to back USB plug-socket assembly like this 
which I use routinely for all Pi-Printer connections. The assembly disconnects the +5V rail from whatever the Pi USB is connected to - this was on a CR10SPro mini USB port - there was sufficient power to keep a Raspberry Pi4 alive. Its a bit confusing when you KNOW its shutdown, but the network RJ45 port leds on the Pi are still lit.
Not pretty, I should make cases for them, but they work..
Same thing here:
Since using a webcam with octoprint the message about under voltage is coming up.
Does the cut out 5V work with an Anycubic Mega S too?
Thx in advance
EDIT: it works, but the undervoltage message is still there, IĀ“ll try another power supply and report here again
EDIT2:
After taping the 5V pin and rebooting the complete system (Raspberry Pi with Octoprint) it works fine. IĀ“ll have a look for another power supply, but actually it seems to run without failure messages.
EDIT3: After 6 hours of printing there no message of undervoltage, but then after about a further hour while not printing the message is there again. I donĀ“t know why, but another power supply is definitly needed!
EDIT4: I took another USB-cable and cut out the 5V-pin within the cable itself. Then I took a 5,1V 3A power supply which is now tested. IĀ“ll report again....
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glad to hear that. I'm also running it on an ender 3 v2 with a pi zero w 2 board
I have it set up on my ender 3 pro as well as ender 3 and v2. Are you sure your piece of tape didn't slide off the plate and cause a accidental connection? You can also cut one of the wires in the usb line as well. It really is an awesome set up so don't give up on it yet. But if you do I'd be happy to buy your pi board.
I bought an original Raspberry Pi 4 power supply like this one with 5,1V 3A.
With an adaptor from USB C to micro USB it works very well, no undervoltage message anymore since then.
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What would be the best course of action for someone with a Pi Zero 2 W and an Ender 3 V2? The interface on both is micro-usb. Do we need to forgo the one short micro usb to micro usb otg cable for 2 micro-to-usb A in order to tape the 5v or use a Blough type USB-A power killer device? (Sad if so, it would be so clean to keep that short micro to micro cable in play)
It's a bit different for a Pi Zero 2. It doesn't have a usb hub and afaik the power lines directly connected to the usb power input - that also means the power output isn't limited by the hub controller.
So if you don't have undevoltage issues you don't need to anything.
If you still want to block the 5V, I would recommend the OTG adapter method.
It works well on my Ender 3.
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Just to add to āPrinter models we've so far seen this reported for areā
My Monoprice Maker Select Plus AKA Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus had this issue and covering the 5V pin fixed it
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Just a note: for my Ender 3 and 3 Pro, I needed to cover the power pin. However for my Ender 2 Pro (the mini Ender) I didn't have to. Perhaps that model only utilizes the data pins on the stock main board.
So, if this tape method works for your printer, is it safe to do it in 2023?
yup 
If you use a third party board (like a BTT SKR) you can sometimes even use jumpers to disable powering via USB.
I actually have a Sovol SV06, so some sort of clone of a creality board. I did the tape method and now my printer's screen no longer powers up when the PSU is off and the Rpi is connected. Also printing just fine via Mainsail/Klipper.
Thanks!
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Isnt there a 3dprinted part already available on thingiverse for that?
yeah but it's also really thin and flimsy
I think the tape is much easier.
You can print one:
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There is also this... Its clean and there is no way to do it wrong. It looks good too. Not like you cobbled something together.
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